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| I think what they want you to do is remove about half of the fluid in the cup and then loosely put the lid on the master cylinder. Then when you compress the calipers to install the new pads you won't overflow the brakes fluid. Remember the cap needs to be loose so air can escape, but screwed on so you don't blow brake fluid all over the engine compartment. |
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Nope, I didn't do the rotors, and ended up not even doing the brake pads! I bought the pads and hardware (springs & pins) to do the brakes this last weekend. Well, I didn't get around to it until Sunday afternoon. I figured I was pretty safe buying the pads up front without inspecting the brakes - after all, I have nearly 80,000 on it, so that pads had to be getting rough. Boy was I wrong.After pulling the wheel and taking off the caliper, I noticed the pads - and they were in remarkably good shape. I'm talking only about only about 1/16 was gone from the pad - a little more but not much. I took the ruler out because I couldn't believe my eyes. So after seeing that so little was off of the front, I put everything back together and inspected the back wheels (this time I checked BEFORE taking the caliper off :-). The back pads were the same - maybe a hair more off than the fronts, but not much. Needless to say, I am extremely impressed with how well these brakes are wearing. I'm not exactly a Sunday driver. I would like to hear what others are experiencing with their brakes. I have heard from others that the FJ rear brakes have been wearing out faster than the fronts, which is why I checked mine. The way these things are wearing, I might not have to change my pads until 140,000! |
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| Dam is right. I figured that the pads would atleast need to be replaced.
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