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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2010, 02:47 PM
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I'm getting ready to rotate my tires in about 1,000 miles, I'll have 60,000 on the clock. I figured I'd change pads at the same time, sounds like I'd better look at them before I buy.
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Old 02-16-2010, 03:06 PM
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I'm interested - how are your pads holding up Squid and ttammunek06? I just wanted to see if this kind of performance is typical.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2010, 09:10 PM
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I just changed the pads and rotors on my 2007, 97K miles. They still had some wear left but were only about 4-5mm from hitting the metal warning tab so I figured I would do it since I had an afternoon to kill. When I looked them over, they wore very evenly as did the rotors. I checked the rear, they probably still have another 20-30K befor I need to change them!
The only inconvenience about the FJ is that the brake line has to be disconnected from the caliper in order to swing it out of the way. There is a flexible piece that goes into a bracket on the upper control arm then it is solid from there to the caliper. I couldn't see any other way to do it. So I had to blled the brakes after, not a big deal, just an added step.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:27 PM
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Mark,
You do not need to disconnect the line. Just take the bolt off that bracket, and take the bolts off the caliper. Then hang it from the frame with a wire coathanger. I know the repair manual says that you have to disconnect it but you don't have too. There is a good step by step at the following URL:

FRONT BRAKES: Replacement w/pics - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Have a look.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2010, 05:27 PM
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Thanks for the advice Tommy, I saw that bolt but wasn't sure that would do it. Well the fronts are done anyway, good for another +80K.
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Old 03-06-2010, 08:42 PM
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it's great to know that the pads are holding up so well. do you have a standard or auto trans? brakes tend to last much longer with a standard because the engine does alot of the braking. as for draining the fluid, this really isn't really needed. however something that should be practice with all ABS systems is opening the bleeder valve while SLOWLY compressing the caliper piston, the reason for this is to avoid backflushing any contaminants into tha ABS module. you would be surprised how much damage a small piece of crud does to a module, something none of us want to pay for,
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:19 PM
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I have auto trans but do a lot of highway (70-80%). What I noticed was how even they wore, inboard and outboard pads virtually the same thickness, very little scoring on the rotors even though I do some off-road beach driving. Prior vehicle was an 03 Trailblazer brakes were horrible at 70K, uneven wear, rotors looked like crap.
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Old 03-09-2010, 04:39 PM
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I have a standard polican. If I have a 4WD, I will always have a stick.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:08 AM
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:49 AM
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