Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Ok time to speak my mind. I have been using Mobil 1 for at least 15 years. I had a lot of people ask me if it is worth the extra cost. But they only way to tell is longetivity of the engine. I never had a vehicle long enough to tell. I bought a new Dodge 360 Ram in 99. This was going to be my long term experiment. I have changed the oil at every 5,000 miles, with Mobile 1 10w30. It now has 300,000 miles. Does not use a drop of oil between changes, and oil preasure still reads 70psi on the highway. The truck has had many hard miles towing heavy loads. Is the Mobil 1 responsable? I don't know for sure, but in my mind it's proved itself to me. But I do believe that any of the BRANDNAME synthetics, are probably just as good in normal everyday driving. The premium synthetics such as Amsoil, or Royal Purple is probably superior in extream conditions, such as high heat or dusty enviroments. Or if your producing serious horse power, where extra protection is needed. I get a 5qrt container of 10w30 from Walmart for $22.00, a good price.
As far as the, 10w30, 5w30, or 0w30 issue. As I have always understood it, the 10,5,or 0 basicly is for the ambient temperture outside. If your in Fla. where the daytime low is 60f. Or northern minnisota where it is -20f. That is what the differences are for. The 0w30 will be thick enough at the extreme lows, and the 10w30 will be thin enough in warmer climates.
To sum up my preaching, think about oil as beer. we all have our favorites, but they all will get you drunk. Ha Ha

I disagree completely. It is more important to get oil flowing to the parts that need it more quickly. One should also never push a car hard in atleast the first three minutes anyway during warmup and circulation time. I completely disagree with your theory about 0w30 vs. 5w30..... I had a saab 9-3 with turbo that went 220,000 mile on the same turbo without failure before selling it to the neighbors kid. I did change oil in it every 5000 religiously and did wait 1.5-2 minutes prior to shutting the car down most of the time for the turbo, but there is not one thing wrong with 0w30. It flows more quickly, coats quicker, and then thickens within a matter of minutes. The only difference between the two are one in a sense is more elastic. Different fillers and molecular structure to an extent. Picture this: A tightly coiled spring and a straight paperclip. The 0w30 molecular structure is the tightly coiled springs. As the molecules of the 0w30 heat, they elongate per say, and the viscosity changes to that of 30w. The molecules of a straight 30w would not have this characteristic as they are already elongated. A 10w30 would not have as much elastisity per say or abilty to elongate and change, therefor the smaller number difference. Straight 30w has no real ability to elongate molecular structure and change viscosity. What really breaks down first is the oils ability to change and elongate. All reputable high grade synthetic oils today really dont have a problem for the first 5,000 miles. The ability for the oil to change its viscosity begins to narrow. If you are hard pressing your car, have a turbo, extremely hot temp driving, etc, consider a change between 5000-7500. Otherwise 10,000 is a good max ballpark with a good synthetic fiber filter.

Remember, a magnetic drainplug is always a great idea no matter what the case.

Guys, I only swear by Amsoil because I have been using it for so long and have seen it first hand. I am sure that most all top notch Synthetics are very similar.

AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases


I run:
0W30 Signature Series Synthetic
Filter = EAo34 even though it calls for a 57. Slightly larger, more filter media...

...and that is the ful story behind whats going on with viscosity, why and how it changes...

Giuntos, that was the mechanics theory I disagree with, not hartman

In addition, companies are leaning toward thinner, easier flowing oils. If you need to make a change they'll always recommend thinner unless you do already have a sealing problem and/or leaks. Anyone other than me notice these manufacturer changes over the last 10 years. Long gone are the days of standard 10w40. Clearances are much smaller, with more little intricate areas and crevices, and little spots that need to be lubricated. Better gas mileage and less strain on an engine with thinner oil as well.

I'm not really buying the mechanic's comments that giudos is feeding us. With proper break-in, regular oil changes, and a good thin oil - forgetaboutit....

Don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating 0W30 in all engines or even in all 5.6L Nissan Titan engines. What I found out by running different oils and viscosity in the Titan was the engine liked the Mobil 1 0w30 per the Oil analysis I had done by Blackstone lab. My Vette likes 10W30 and the Land cruiser 5W30 all by having an analysis done. I also think that driving style, filters and environment (Hot and Cold) play a big part in what type and viscosity will work best for a certain engine. As for how long the engine will last with 0W30 I'll let you know because the Queen won't let me sell her.

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