Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

I always change my oil at the max that the manufacturer will allow until after the warranty has run out just in case something does happen to the engine. I just take all the receipts when I change the oil and staple them to the applicable page of the maintenance manual so I know where they are.

As for what oil is the best I really don't think it matters and will leave that debate for others. I have the same stock engines in both my 56 Chevy pickup and 72 Landcruiser and both have 100's of thousand of miles on them using Dino oil and those orange fram filters that people love to hate. The secret to longevity of an engine is consistent maintenance including the air filter and when it comes to that I'm a fanatic. Back in the day before the net 3000 miles was the norm and that's what I did. Now with the net and forums like this we're a lot more informed and now know that 3000 miles is over kill and that with an oil analysis and synthetic oils it's possible to go over 10,000 miles between changes and that's a godsend for someone like me who drives over 40,000 miles a year just for work.

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I've performed quality audits at Shell, Citgo and a little blender named DA Lube in Indianapolis. The big guys have extensive labs and are beyond serious in their tribology. The little guys partner up with the additive companys. The additive suppliers are another ball game all together. All oils have additives. Did you know that full synthetic oil is still based on dino oil? True story I kid you not. I guess my point is that if you stick with a big name oil product you should feel confident in its R&D and quality controls at the blender.

That's a fact and it's also the reason that different engines respond differently to different viscosity oils even from the same manufacturer. I tried different viscosities of Mobil1 extended until I found that 0W30 worked best in my 04 Titan per an oil analysis even tho I live in an area that rarely gets into the single digits in the winter but does get well over 100 in the summer.

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In another thread, someone was talking about how 0w30 is destroying and engine, basically allowing scraping, rather than proper thickness, etc....

I disagree completely. It is more important to get oil flowing to the parts that need it more quickly. One should also never push a car hard in atleast the first three minutes anyway during warmup and circulation time. I completely disagree with your theory about 0w30 vs. 5w30..... I had a saab 9-3 with turbo that went 220,000 mile on the same turbo without failure before selling it to the neighbors kid. I did change oil in it every 5000 religiously and did wait 1.5-2 minutes prior to shutting the car down most of the time for the turbo, but there is not one thing wrong with 0w30. It flows more quickly, coats quicker, and then thickens within a matter of minutes. The only difference between the two are one in a sense is more elastic. Different fillers and molecular structure to an extent. Picture this: A tightly coiled spring and a straight paperclip. The 0w30 molecular structure is the tightly coiled springs. As the molecules of the 0w30 heat, they elongate per say, and the viscosity changes to that of 30w. The molecules of a straight 30w would not have this characteristic as they are already elongated. A 10w30 would not have as much elastisity per say or abilty to elongate and change, therefor the smaller number difference. Straight 30w has no real ability to elongate molecular structure and change viscosity. What really breaks down first is the oils ability to change and elongate. All reputable high grade synthetic oils today really dont have a problem for the first 5,000 miles. The ability for the oil to change its viscosity begins to narrow. If you are hard pressing your car, have a turbo, extremely hot temp driving, etc, consider a change between 5000-7500. Otherwise 10,000 is a good max ballpark with a good synthetic fiber filter.

Remember, a magnetic drainplug is always a great idea no matter what the case.

Guys, I only swear by Amsoil because I have been using it for so long and have seen it first hand. I am sure that most all top notch Synthetics are very similar.

AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases


I run:
0W30 Signature Series Synthetic
Filter = EAo34 even though it calls for a 57. Slightly larger, more filter media...

...and that is the full story behind whats going on with viscosity, why and how it changes...

You should see the aircraft jet engines I tear apart and see if you have any questions about synthetic oils, high temperatures, and extended use...